An Unbeatable winter season?

Alastair BegleyWinter Climbing Short Link

So it seems the winter season which just kept giving is finally coming to an end. Over the past 4 months I have managed 21 days out in winter conditions all over the country, including the Brecon Beacons, Snowdonia, Glen Coe, Lochaber and the Isle of Skye. During these days I managed a winter walk, 2 days skiing and 33 winter climbs including descents of which 26 were unique, and most were in fantastic conditions. This winter has been truly spectacular as I have had so many days out on brilliant ice and in brilliant weather and I have progressed from climbing grade III to being happy at V and even attempting a VI, over the course of the winter I have climbed many of the classic lines lines on Ben Nevis, seen some spectacular views and made new friendships. I finished my season in just about the best way I can imagine by heading up to complete the Cuillin Ridge Traverse over the Easter Bank Holiday weekend in fantastic alpine conditions. My winter started in December before the major thaw which hit the country in January and wiped out winter for a month.. Read the full article…

First Pembroke Trip of the Year

Alastair BegleyRock Climbing Short Link

With a bit of a contrast to last weekend in Skye on the Cuillin Ridge, I spent Saturday rock climbing on Pembroke’s fantastic sea cliffs with Neil. It was a glorious day with a warm sun and a chilly breeze however the crags were mostly sheltered from this. With less than ideal tides and bird bans we headed to Stennis Head in the morning to do some non tidal and non bird banned routes. I started up Bludgeon which was a lovely HVS 5a corner which was quickly climbed to the top without much difficulty which I was very pleased with as I hadn’t lead a trad route since January and in February I only rock climbed twice. After this we abseiled back down and headed for the ‘Merchant of Stennis’ however in Neil’s haste he ended up leading up the E5 crackline to the left of the route called Fetish. He made swift work up to and past the crux but ran out of energy for the final section. After a few more attempts, including having to repeat the crux he escaped right into the E3 for a few moves before heading to the top. I. Read the full article…

Winter Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge

Alastair BegleyScotland, Winter Climbing Short Link

Having had a brilliant winter season I was quite content with staying down south for an extended period and getting back on rock, in fact I was supposed to be rock climbing in Cornwall last weekend. However, the weather had other ideas and with rain, wind and cold weather forecast down south I decided to make the most of the extended winter season in Scotland for another weekend. After exchanging emails with Mike Lates of Skye Guides I decided to head up to attempt a winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye due to the ridge being in full on winter conditions and having a weather window where the forecast was cold weather, no wind and lots of sun. A winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge is a route which is not often in good conditions due to being close to the sea and due to its nature is regarded as one of the finest mountaineering expeditions in the UK. We planned on taking three days on the ridge moving from north to south as is common in winter due to most of the difficulties being abseiled and having. Read the full article…