Blog Posts in Category: Italy

Vajolet Towers – Torre Stabeler Normal Route

With a slightly mixed forecast we decided to head into the remote Rifugio Re Alberto to climb on the famous Vajolet Towers. Our main aim was for Piaz Arête which climbs the left hand arête of Torre Delago (left hand tower), however having not climbed for a while, and with the cloud which was around on the first day we headed for a slightly easer route, the normal route up Torre Stabeler, the central and highest pinnacle. We walked into the rifugio from the top of the Vajolet II chairlift, and made excellent time despite our horrible heavy bags. I again decided to carry my photography gear, but this time it was in addition to climbing gear! When we arrived at the rifugio we were very hot from the hard ascent, but as it was in the cloud it was pretty cold so we soon cooled down. After a coffee and a hot chocolate to warm up we headed over to our route, and thankfully as we left the hut the cloud cleared and mostly stayed away. We soloed the first easy pitch to get to the start of the. Read the full article…

Brenta Dolomites Day 2/2: Via delle Bocchette Centrale

Continuing on from our first day and night on the Via delle Bocchette we set off after a leisurely breakfast on the classic central section of the traverse, the Via delle Bocchette Centrale via ferrata. The start of the day was a short climb up to the Bocca degli Armi, this is the section of the route which forced us to carry our crampons and ice axe as it involved a short cross of a dry glasier. We were not sure if we would actually need them, but when we got there we were very glad that we had them, even if only for 100m! When we got to the col it became apparent that there was a brilliant cloud inversion to the south, unlike the cloudless skies to the north. This provided us with yet more atmospheric views, but as we were earlier today the clouds remained firmly in the valleys. An strenuous start quickly lead us up to the highlight of the two days. The route crossed improbable ledges as it traversed around Torre di Brenta and Campanile Alto. No words can really describe how brilliant this section. Read the full article…

Sunset, Astro and Sunrise from Rifugio Alimonta

During our hut to hut across the Brenta Dolomites, I perhaps foolishly decided to carry my tripod, filters and wide angle lens with me. This left me with a very heavy bag, but did enable me to make the most of staying high in the mountains and the beautiful evening and morning light. The other advantage of doing the route in September is that sunset and sunrise are both at respectable times, this even allowed me to some time where the sky was actually dark to try my hand at astro photography for the first time. Totally by accident I managed to find the milky way! Despite sunrise being around 7, I still struggled to drag myself out of bed the next morning having not slept that well. But I am very glad I did, as it was a beautiful morning and it was a great way to start the day.

Brenta Dolomites Day 1/2: Sentiero Alfredo Benini & Sentiero Bocchette Alte

We decided to start our holiday with a hut to hut in the Brenta Dolomites on the Via delle Bocchette, an area known for it’s stunning mountains which are surprisingly accessible due to the via ferratas which wind their way along ledges with ladders whenever the terrain becomes technical. Classic traverses tend to range between 3 and 5 days, however after much debating we decided to link days 1 & 2 together by doing Sentiero Alfredo Benini & Sentiero Bocchette Alte as a long first day which took us just over 8 hours. This took us to the stunning Rifugio Alimonta where we spent the night, before we completed the classic Via delle Bocchette Centrale on the second day. The descent out to the valley was also surprisingly enjoyable. We caught the first lift up and made good time to the start of the first via ferrata (Sentiero Alfredo Benini), however it soon became clear that we had misjudged the temperatures and were regretting our choice of clothing, and the number of layers which were packed in our bags. The start of the via ferrata was a good sign of. Read the full article…

Mountain rock climbing above Misurina

Between our days at Cinque Torrie, and to finish our trip we had two excellent days out rock climbing above Misurina. The first was a short day on Diedro Mazzorana and the second was the long mountain multi pitch route Mazzorana. Diedro Mazzorana With another day with a poor afternoon forecast, we found the easily accessible Diedro Mazzorana which climbed Monte Popena Basso in 4 pitches. After getting hopelessly lost on the approach thanks to the awful description in the Rockfax book we just about decided that we still had enough time to climb the route. The first pitch was excellent with some enjoyable corner climbing, and just enough gear to keep me comfortable. The second pitch was fairly scrappy, which took us towards the chimney feature for the outstanding final two pitches. The final two pitches involved excellent chimney climbing, with some outstanding exposure, bridging, face climbing and a little bit of thrutching for good measure.  The views from the summit were excellent, and the descent back down was very easy which made for an excellent morning out. When we got back down to Misurina we had a quick,. Read the full article…

Two Mornings at Cinque Torri

We had a couple of mornings climbing at Cinque Torrie as we had forecasts with a nice morning, followed by a stormy afternoon. Climbing at Cinque Torrie meant that we could easily approach with a chairlift, followed by a short walk in. Day 1 On the first morning we climbed the classic Via Normale on Quarta Bassa, which was fully bolted. It is a very classic route, but as we got the first chairlift we were the first on the route. We ran some pitches together to climb the route in two excellent pitches. After a quick photo on the top we had an atmospheric abseil down into a cave between Quarta Bassa and Quarta Alta. We were very glad for the early start as by the time we had got back to our bags, the initial pitches of the route were chaos as there were about 3 separate teams climbing the route at the same time. As the bad weather had not yet arrived, we then made the most of our 60m ropes by climbing a two pitch sport route, Bassa Thirteen, as a single pitch. The route climbed. Read the full article…

Via Ferrata Punta Anna & Lamon/Formenton

The Punta Anna via ferrata is a classic route which climbs Punta Anna and then continues onto Tofana di Mezzo by combining three via ferratas: Ferrata di Punta Sant Anna, Ferrata Guiseppe Olivieri and then Ferrata Gianni Aglio. It is a long route which is graded 5c, so a fairly serious undertaking. Usually this route would finish at the lift station at Tofana di Mezzo, however at the start of July this lift was not yet open. This meant we had to descend using two other via ferratas (Ferrata Lamon and Formenton) which also involved climbing another peak, Tofana di Dentro. As the book gave this day 12 hours we reluctantly had yet another early start. The walk into the route from Rifugio Dibona was a harsh wake up in the morning as it was very steep. We arrived at the base of the route at the same time as another British couple, who we ended up spending the entire day with which was a lovely addition to our day. The climbing was very interesting as it was mainly focussed on rock and was also fairly technical whilst also not. Read the full article…

Tomaselli via ferrata

With a poor afternoon forecast we decided to have an early start on the Tomaselli via ferrata in order to avoid the crowds and make sure we were back down before the rain arrived. Apparently this route used to have the reputation of being the hardest via ferrata in the Dolomites. We joined the many other vans sleeping at the cable car station, which meant that we had as much sleep as possible before our early start. The morning was beautiful as there was not a cloud in the sky. The walk out of the car park was fairly brutal, and did lead to us questioning our decision to not use the lift, however the views were fantastic which did somewhat make up for the hard ascent. We made great time to the start of the route, as we were there before the cable car even opened. The start of the route was tricky, but not overly interesting as it required lots of cable pulling, interspersed with lots of very loose ledges. The second half of the route was significantly better than the first half. The rock was solid, the. Read the full article…