Blog Posts in Category: Mountaineering

Hasentalkopf

Alastair BegleyBavaria, Walking Short Link

Wanting to make the most of the autumnal walking conditions Rob, Helen and I headed out to an area of the Ammergauer Alpen which none of us had been to before. Rob chose this walk because the contours looked “interesting” on the map, which seemed as good a reason as any to select a route, and the shape of the mountain was certainly unusual! As the previous day had been much sunnier the roads, and more importantly, the hills were very quiet. The start of the walk headed up a quiet valley in the forrest, however we soon left the track and headed up a small path. It didn’t feel like other walking I had done in the area, and felt much more remote was which really nice. As we arrived at the Bäckenalmsattel we were treated to a wonderful view to the west, which just became better as we climbed. We were soon able to see our objective, and the strange bowl below it. The best way to describe it was that it looked like the middle of an old volcano due to the depth and lack of runoff. Read the full article…

Seinskopf-Schöttelkarspitze Circuit

Alastair BegleyBavaria, Walking Short Link

With Becky visiting for the weekend and a good weather forecast we wanted to make the most of our local mountains and the beautiful autumnal views. We decided to head down to do a walk from Krün, which is only 90 minutes from Munich! We did a circuit up to the Seinskopf which then traversed a ridge over to the popular Schöttelkarspitze and then descended down the other side past the Soiernhaus before heading back to Krün. The ascent was abrupt and most of the height gain was up to the Seinskopf, but as the path was good it didn’t feel too bad and we made excellent time. Thanks to the wonderful autumn colours it was far more enjoyable ascending in the woods than normal. When we started to approach the tree line we were treated to some brilliant views over towards the Zugspitze and a sign of the day to come. The views from the Seinskopf were just brilliant, with the big glacial valleys and the towns of Krün and Mittenwald contrasting against the German alps, with a sneak peak into the Austrian alps as well. The walk along. Read the full article…

Summer Holiday 2020 Summary

Alastair BegleyBavaria, Dolomites, Landscape, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Via Ferrata Short Link

We have recently finished a brilliant holiday in the German Alps and the Dolomites. It was great to have a holiday with excellent conditions after the mixed year so far due to Coronavirus. This post contains a summary of the photos from the trip in 27 photos. We started the trip with a day trip into the Bavarian Alps from Munich, due to the next 2 days having pretty poor weather (and the only bad weather we had on the trip). Mittenwalder Höhenweg Klettersteig After a day in Munich we then drove down to the Brenta Dolomites to do a hut-to-hut trip through the high mountains. These via ferratas are very different to the rest of the Dolomites and can be best described as ledges and ladders in surreal positions. The two day trip through the mountains was incredible and is highly recommended. Brenta Dolomites Day 1/2: Sentiero Alfredo Benini & Sentiero Bocchette Alte Sunset, Astro and Sunrise from Rifugio Alimonta Brenta Dolomites Day 2/2: Via delle Bocchette Centrale We then had a relocation day to the central Dolomites. For the rest of the trip we based ourselves in the. Read the full article…

Saas Pordoi Via Maria Climb

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Rock Climbing Short Link

On the last day of out holiday we decided to climb the classic Via Maria up the south face of the Sass Pordoi. This is a 370m 8 pitch climb (+ 3 pitches of moving together at the top) which is graded at VI+ or about UK Hard Severe. As it was a long route we wanted to leave plenty of time, and we didn’t really want to spend the day queueing if we could avoid it we decided to have a really early start. This worked out as we were the first team on the route, however as it turns out there was actually only one other team on the route that day anyway! As it was a long route, and I have had previous issues with the Rockfax guidebook I searched around the internet for better route descriptions. I found this one which seemed much better for most of the route: https://www.multi-pitch.com/climbs/via-maria-on-sass-pordoi-south-face/ After a harsh start to the day with the steep climb out of the car park, with tired legs we were soon at the climb. Most of the climbing was brilliant with good rock and interesting. Read the full article…

Val Duron Via Ferrata – Laurenzi-Molignon

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Via Ferrata Short Link

On our second day from the Rifugio Alpe di Tires we were going to do the Laurenzi-Molignon via ferrata, which crosses the impressive ridge which you look at as you walk up Val Duron. The description in the Rockfax guidebooks described it has having lots of poorly protected downclimbing on loose cable, thankfully since the guide has been written the route has been fully re-equipped so it is now well protected with good cable. After a short approach from the hut we were soon at the start of the cable. The first section was very easy and took us up to a nice section of ridge walking with fantastic views over Val Duron. We also found a surprising bench which was ideally situated, if only it was late enough to have lunch at that point! We were soon at the start of the proper route, and it certainly did not disappoint on exposure! We spent a significant amount of time scrambling with a massive drop which felt like it went all the way down to Val Duron below us. The new cable meant that it always felt safe, and the. Read the full article…

Val Duron Via Ferrata – Sentiero Massimiliano

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Via Ferrata Short Link

With an excellent multi day weather window we decided to head up to Rifugio Alpe di Tires which is situated at the top of the beautiful Val Duron. From this rifugio there are two classic via ferratas which are known for having stunning views, and they certainly did not disappoint. We decided not to pay for the shuttle bus up to the start of Val Duron and made the walk up, this was steep right from the start and not a particularly pleasant way to start the day. Thankfully we were rewarded with a beautiful view up Val Duron towards the col which was hiding the rifugio. The walk along Val Duron was beautiful, and we made great time so before we knew it we were at top of Passo Duron. All that was then left was a final ascent up to the hut. After arriving at the hut we discarded most of our kit and headed out for the short via ferrata. It is graded as VF2B, so we decided to leave our kit off and only put it on if we felt like we needed it. This made. Read the full article…

Vajolet Towers – Torre Delago – Piaz Arete

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Rock Climbing Short Link

We had much better weather on our second day at the Vajolet Towers. As we were staying in the fantastic Rifugio Re Alberto we were the first to our route. We had heard lots of excellent comments about the route, and about the level of exposure experienced and the route certainly did not disappoint. We soloed up the first easy pitch to the first proper belay on the route, this was on a ledge just to the right of the arete. The next pitch was the crux, it started up the right hand side of the arete, before getting to a ledge with some gear. At this point you had to make a tricky move out onto the arete, which suddenly put you above a massive drop into the valley below. Steady climbing up the arete then continued, which started to feel more and more airy as I edged up further away from the gear. A few more moves led to a ledge and some gear, before it all started again with another step out onto the arete. By this point 8 other people had arrived to do the climb,. Read the full article…

Vajolet Towers – Torre Stabeler Normal Route

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Rock Climbing Short Link

With a slightly mixed forecast we decided to head into the remote Rifugio Re Alberto to climb on the famous Vajolet Towers. Our main aim was for Piaz Arête which climbs the left hand arête of Torre Delago (left hand tower), however having not climbed for a while, and with the cloud which was around on the first day we headed for a slightly easer route, the normal route up Torre Stabeler, the central and highest pinnacle. We walked into the rifugio from the top of the Vajolet II chairlift, and made excellent time despite our horrible heavy bags. I again decided to carry my photography gear, but this time it was in addition to climbing gear! When we arrived at the rifugio we were very hot from the hard ascent, but as it was in the cloud it was pretty cold so we soon cooled down. After a coffee and a hot chocolate to warm up we headed over to our route, and thankfully as we left the hut the cloud cleared and mostly stayed away. We soloed the first easy pitch to get to the start of the. Read the full article…