Having had a brilliant winter season I was quite content with staying down south for an extended period and getting back on rock, in fact I was supposed to be rock climbing in Cornwall last weekend. However, the weather had other ideas and with rain, wind and cold weather forecast down south I decided to make the most of the extended winter season in Scotland for another weekend. After exchanging emails with Mike Lates of Skye Guides I decided to head up to attempt a winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye due to the ridge being in full on winter conditions and having a weather window where the forecast was cold weather, no wind and lots of sun. A winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge is a route which is not often in good conditions due to being close to the sea and due to its nature is regarded as one of the finest mountaineering expeditions in the UK. We planned on taking three days on the ridge moving from north to south as is common in winter due to most of the difficulties being abseiled and having. Read the full article…

Another week finished at work, in fact my first full week since January due to all my Scotland trips in February and instead of enjoying a nice relaxing weekend it was back in the car for another eight hour drive up to Fort William for a weekends winter climbing. This trip was with James and was a fairly last minute trip due to the weather down south being to wet and cold to go rock climbing.We rolled into the North Face car park at 1:30am, set the alarm for 4:30 and headed to bed. Very tired after three hours sleep we woke up, had some breakfast and coffee before starting the now very familiar walk up to the CIC hut. Despite being pretty tired it was the most enjoyable walk in I have done so far due to the weather being so Alpine with a clear sky, the Ben looking like an iced christmas cake and a fantastic view of the mountains behind us. We were soon at the CIC hut after 1h15mins and started the hard walk in up the fresh powder towards the minus face. Despite being at. Read the full article…

After yet another brilliant day on the Ben I still wasn’t going to give myself a rest day so on Sunday me, David and Rich for up for an alpine start and headed up to the North Face of Ben Nevis yet again with the plan to climb Hadrian’s Wall Direct, another classic *** V,5 ice climb. I was coming down with a cold and found the walk in really touch, it has been a long time since I have struggled so much in the hills and pretty much collapsed on my bag when we stopped to gear up. Looking up towards Hadrian’s Wall and Point Five I remembered how tiring the initial snow slope was last time and with my current state of body was really not looking forward to it, thankfully half a packet of Jelly Babies helped significantly and we arrived at the bottom of the route without anyone in front of us. Looking up from the bottom the ice looked absolutely fantastic, a long, very sustained but not too steep section of ice. There was a ledge around 7m up what looked like easy ground so. Read the full article…

Late on Friday night David arrived up from Derby which meant that I had a climbing partner keen to get on a grade V ice route, so we set our alarms for 4:30 with a plan on walking into the Ben and seeing what was in condition but hoping that Minus Two was still looking climbable. After four hours sleep we both felt pretty rough in the morning but after 1h30 of walking in drizzle reached the CIC hut, thankfully as we approached the hut the drizzle stopped and the conditions started to improve. After picking up some water we headed up to Observatory Gully and got our first closeup view of the Minus face and saw a very thin looking Minus Two, after a brief discussion we decided to carry on walking towards it to see if it looked any better. Minus One was looking fatter and had a team gearing up at the first belay, we decided that Minus Two looked climbable so went for it. After a quick game of rock, paper, scissors at the belay I took the first pitch and very feeling slightly nervous setting. Read the full article…

On Thursday night most people were feeling pretty tried due to getting up at around 4:30am and then having an afternoon in the hills. Due to this no one fancied an alpine start to head into Ben Nevis so the decision was made to head up to the east face of Aonach Mor for a day of chilled out ice climbing. I describe it as chilled out as it is possible to get a gondola and chair lift up to over 900m which makes it a very easy approach. I tried to climb at Aonach Mor twice in February but both days were cancelled due to the wind being stronger than forecast and causing the gondola not to open, however today the weather was much nicer than forecast with no wind, crystal clear skies and lovely cold air overnight which froze all the snow up nicely. After a cold gondola ride up to the top we started the walk in with stunning views and quickly warmed up as the air temperature was increasing and the sun moving higher into the sky, we quickly arrived at the top of easy gully. Read the full article…

Having been back from Scotland for a week long trip for three days before  heading up for an impromptu trip last weekend, I was back at work for another three days before heading up to Scotland for the annual Avon Mountaineering Club trip to Scotland. This time we were flying which meant that as we were catching an early flight we arrived in Glen Coe by midday with time to do a quick route. After very quickly repacking our bags we headed up out of the very warm valley up to Stob Coire nan Lochan hoping that it was cold enough up high for the snow to have remained frozen. This turned out to be very optimistic and it was a hard slog up unfrozen snow to get up to the coire, however the weather was good and provided us with great views up Glen Coe and we could even occasionally see the summit. We headed up Boomerang Gully a grade II climb, it was a bit soft all the way up which made it very hard going, however it was nice to be out in the mountains again. We soloed up. Read the full article…